Interview with Dr. Doris Brandhuber:, co-founder Less is More

(Listen to our podcast with Dr. Doris Brandhuber.)

An Interview with Dr. Doris Brandhuber, Co-Founder of Less is More

Dr. Doris Brandhuber is the co-founder of Less is More, chemist and aromatherapist. Her work bridges the worlds of biochemistry, biomimicry, and ecological responsibility. Instead of following a traditional academic path, she chose to bring scientific purity into hair and skincare, proving that less really can be more.

Below, she shares her perspective on integrity in beauty, why nature is the greatest teacher, and how transparency can redefine luxury.

“Chemists shape the invisible interface between humans and the environment.”

What do you see as Less is More’s most important contribution?

Less is More bridges the gap between science, nature, and aesthetics. Our contribution is to show that high-performance beauty can be achieved with uncompromising purity and ecological responsibility. We have proven that organic products can not only match but exceed the sensory and functional quality of conventional formulations, and that conscious choices can feel deeply luxurious.

How do you define greenwashing in beauty, and how common is it today?

Greenwashing begins where marketing takes over the narrative from integrity, when natural imagery or selective truths are used to sell products that are neither clean nor responsible. Sadly, it’s still very common. The demand for “green” has outpaced true understanding of what it means. Real sustainability requires transparency, traceability, and the willingness to make uncomfortable choices.

What shocked you most when you first analyzed typical product formulas?

How far removed they were from the body’s own biology, and how often irritation or inflammation is simply accepted as normal. Conventional formulas are dominated by petrochemical derivatives and synthetic additives that disturb the skin and scalp’s microbiome. I was also struck by how much the industry normalizes unnecessary complexity and lack of biodegradability (liquid microplastics).

In plain words, what is biomimicry in hair/skin care, and why does it matter?

Biomimicry means learning from nature, not copying its look, but understanding its function. The skin and scalp are intelligent ecosystems. If we formulate in harmony with their biology rather than against it, we support the body’s natural processes instead of constantly repairing damage. This is the future of formulation science: gentle, synergistic, effective.

“The skin and scalp are intelligent ecosystems.”

What role should chemists/formulators play in a safer, healthier world?

Chemists shape the invisible interface between humans and the environment. We hold both power and responsibility: to create products that nurture rather than harm, and to make scientific knowledge accessible without dogma. Our role is to translate complexity into clarity, and to help rebuild trust through truth and transparency.

Which ingredient or practice did you abandon, and why?

Over the years we have refined many of our formulas, always guided by new scientific insights and our own high standards. We have left behind earlier generations of shampoos and conditioners as we developed even more effective, skin-compatible and environmentally coherent systems.

One specific example of an ingredient we did abandon is chitosan, a natural film former originally derived from shellfish, used in styling products. We replaced it with vegan pullulan, a plant-based alternative that offers the same functional benefits (hold, shine, protection) while aligning with our vegan and sustainability principles. Each step like this is part of our continuous evolution: less compromise, more integrity.

How do you balance rigorous science with market pressure and trends?

By staying rooted in our values. Trends are transient; integrity is not. We observe the market, but we don’t let it dictate our formulations. Our compass is scientific evidence and ecological coherence. When you create from that place, beauty becomes timeless rather than trend-dependent.

“Trends are transient; integrity is not.”

Which part of the supply chain worries you most, and what gives you hope?

The origin of raw materials, both ethical and ecological. Even natural ingredients can have a hidden cost in land use, labor, or biodiversity.

What gives me hope is the growing movement of small, transparent producers and cooperatives who cultivate plants with respect for soil, people, and place. Collaboration is the way forward.

If you could change one regulation or industry habit tomorrow, what would it be?

I would require full ingredient transparency, not just INCI lists, but sourcing, processing, and environmental footprint. Consumers deserve to know what they’re buying into. With real transparency, marketing spin would lose its power and genuine innovation would thrive.

When people buy Less is More, what values and practices are they supporting?

They support a holistic approach: certified organic cultivation, local and fair partnerships, packaging from recycled plastic, and formulations that respect both skin health and planetary health. They also support an aesthetic of naturalness and conscious choice, beauty that comes from intention, not excess. Every product embodies the idea that less can truly be more.

What message would you share with someone discovering Less is More at Farmatuur?

Welcome to a different kind of beauty, one that is intelligent, sensual, and sustainable. You don’t have to compromise between efficacy, pleasure, and conscience. Every drop carries the care of science and the purity of nature. Once you experience that harmony, you’ll understand what we mean by Less is More.

“You don’t have to choose between efficacy, pleasure, and conscience.”

A New Kind of Scientist

Dr. Doris Brandhuber represents a new generation of scientists: curious, responsible, and poetic all at once. In her work, reason and intuition flow together, giving rise to a form of beauty that is no longer only about appearance, but about harmony between humans, nature, and science. Her philosophy shows that when we follow nature’s intelligence rather than overpower it, we create products, and futures, that nourish on every level.

Less is More is not just formulation.
It is a worldview.

Interested to hear more? Listen to our podcast with Dr. Doris Brandhuber.

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